Guys,

What's the best way to finish the balsa that goes under a clear plastic payload bay?

I've built a Scrambler from Semroc parts and a payload bay from Gordy at Excelsior. I did an above-average job of both building and finishing the booster section and I'd like to do a good job on the payload bay. I'd like to paint the balsa of both nose and transition under the clear sections. Is it filler and sealer and lots of sanding or is there another answer? The only other time I've done this was about 40 years ago on an X-Ray and I used a Q-Tip and a square bottle of Testors red. I was hoping for a more sophisticated answer this time . . . .

So please post your suggestions. And for what kind of glue to attach the clear section to the transition.

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NAR 79743
NARTrek Silver
I miss being SAM 062

Awaiting First Launch: Too numerous to count
Finishing: Zooch Saturn V; Alway/Nau BioArcas; Estes Expedition; TLP Standard
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Dream Stage: 1/39.37 R-7

I painted bands of black on the clear payload section instead of trying to finish the shoulders, and then just panted the end of the transition and nosecone black. If you want the ends inside the tube to look slick, finish them like you would the outer surface. If you'd like them to have a little texture, painting over the lightly sanded surface looks good.

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I love sanding.

I used a really good way on the two of mine.
I used a Black "Industrial Permanent" Sharpie Marker for the black nose cone shoulder and the black balsa adapter shoulder section.
Give it about 2 hours to dry and all the Xylene/Acetone from the marker will have 'flashed off' then you can assemble the clear tube onto both shoulders.
The marker dye does not lift off onto the tube either. one of mine was built that way over 10 years ago and the plastic has no black marks on it still.
Using the marker does not cause any 'diameter increase' like a paint coating does. the marker ink absorbs completely into the balsa and does not cause any 'fuzzing' of the wood either.
If the fit of the transition into the tube is tight enough, I would not glue it at all.
If you 'must' glue it use plain "Elmers white glue" as it dries crystal clear. You could use a THIN coat of epoxy as well. Glues to avoid- Titebond or any 'aliphatic resin' types as they dry yellow and look terrible under clear plastic, also avoid CA at ALL costs under anything clear. That stuff WILL 'fog' the clear tube and ruin it. Plastic cement is a LOUSY choice for bonding plastic to balsa also; it has zero shear strength when bonding dis-similar materials.

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OL J R

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The X-87B Cruise Basselope-- THE Ultimate Weapon in the arsenal of Homeland Security and only $52 million per round!

Do not paint the shoulders!

The paint will glue the clear tube to the transition and nose cone.

Guess how I know?

I won't do that again.

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"I'm a sandman. I've never killed anyone. I terminate runners when their time is up." Logan from "Logan's Run"

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I painted mine just like Tbzep.
Mask the clear tube so the painted area covers the balsa shoulders underneath.
I paint just past the shoulder area to insure coverage.
Scotch tape works great to mask the smooth plastic.

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Hans "Chris" Michielssen
Old/New NAR # 19086 SR

www.oddlrockets.com
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Your results may vary
"Nose cones roll, be careful with that."
Every spaceman needs a ray gun.
Look out - I'm the Meister Shyster!

I did mine, and do all of my clear payloads, like Zep and Banjo. Clearly, no pun intended, GH has had good results with his technique.
Again, another reason why I love this forum: so much information is available.
Also, I exclusively use white Elmer's to glue the transition. The nose cones are generally snug enough to not require glue.

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Just completed: Estes Cherokee-E, Estes Multi-Roc.

Current project: Painting the roll pattern on my new Ventris build, gifted me by the estimable Dr. Houchin.

If the fit is sub-par, small (permanent) self adhesive paper labels (think the old disks we used when making Estes parachutes back in the day) applied to the inside of the clear tube work well. Then mask the clear body tube, and paint the bands around it. Those labels are also good for gluing parts (LL's, shock cord mounts, etc.) to clear body tubes. For example, like when you are building a clear rocket like the Estes Phantom.

Painting the nosecone and the payload section as a single unit can lead to bad results. That can bond the two parts together, and the paint will crack (possibly chip) when you try to take it apart after it dries. And don't forget to mask the inside of the clear tube to prevent problems from overspray. I usually just use a piece of rolled up paper slipped inside for that.

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Dreaming of making the rockets I dreamed of as a kid (and then some).

"The Guide says there is an art to flying", said Ford, "or rather a knack."
"The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss."

Launching is Optional... Landing? That Depends on Trees.

Whenever I build a rocket with a clear payload section (Loadstar, Warp II, Magician, Scrambler, Hercules, X-Ray, etc.) I always color the outside of the shoulder area by wrapping it with colored Monokote adhesive film. No masking, no painting. The film also adds strength to the clear plastic tube.

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Neat solution. However, I bet there are colors that Trim Monokote doesn't have... such as the blue decals of the Estes Magnum Payloader (2032/1422). Turned out that the best paint match was Testors Gloss Bright Blue (1210).

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Dreaming of making the rockets I dreamed of as a kid (and then some).

"The Guide says there is an art to flying", said Ford, "or rather a knack."
"The knack lies in learning how to throw yourself at the ground and miss."

Launching is Optional... Landing? That Depends on Trees.